One of the reasons my route is structured the way it is, is so that i can spend some time exploring the surrounds of Issiy-Kul lake. This is the second largest mountain lake in the world (after Lake Titicaca in Peru/Bolivia), is situated within the Tien Shan mountains, and is a popular destination within the Russosphere, with lakeside resorts that fill up during summer.

This location is one of the main tourism development initiatives undertaken by the Kyrgyz government, and they have started to open the area up for foreign investment. It is considered a “4 season” location, where tourists may come throughout the year.

Time to set off!

Today my route took me from the easternmost point (where Karakol is located) around the southern side of the lake, to the median point on the northern side of the lake (Cholpon-Ata).

Today’s route around Issiy-Kul lake

The southern side is known to be much quieter and less developed than the northern side, which is home to many large scale (but old looking resorts).

On the southern side:

• There seems to be an abundance of lakefront land, that i suspect would have very good feng shui (water in front, mountains to the rear)
• There were a few accommodation options in development; i could see several smaller scale by (10-20) glamping sites, and one large scale site with what could have been 100+ huts
• The roads on the were undergoing works, with many sections unsealed (but i would expect these to be completed in a year or two)
• Most of the lakefront seems to be powered
• There were relatively few options for food/cafes around

The big glamping site (yes in the distance those are all glamping huts)

The northern side is much more developed, with what feels like a brand new highway and many large resorts (and similarly large plots of land which look like places where resorts will be built).

Western side of Issiy-Kul lake

WWII monument? on the northern side of Issiy-Kul lake

That being said, there does not seem to be much tourism happening at this time of year. Most resorts (i think all?) have ceased operations for the winter already, so accommodation is limited to guesthouses.

I feel like this area could be a promising nature-focused tourism destination for the gulf states and China, as well as older more affluent western tourists (above and beyond the existing market of “off the beaten path travellers” who generally don’t have much money to spend, or the Russosphere).

I reached fairytale canyon, one of the tourist destinations along the way at noon. At the gate, a local asked for 50 KGS (~0.50c) for entry. I hadn’t bothered to get local cash just yet, so I offered him dollars…which he refused. I asked if he would change money with me, after which he replied telling me to go to the bank (which would have been a long way away). It was only after I made it very explicit that I’d give him a good rate (50KGS/$1, about a 90$5 so i could pay for entry.

Fairy tale canyon

Fairy tale canyon pt 2

There were a handful of other travellers there. It seemed to be a similar environment to the Zhangye Danxia landform, only on a much much smaller scale.

Lunch was a burger in Bokonbayevo, where I decided I’d push on past my original goal of Balykchy, to stay in Cholpon-Ata. This way I would save a day.

Bokonbayevo burger

About two hours of riding later I had arrived in Cholpon-Ata.

I’ll be staying the night in a guesthouse run by an elderly Kyrgyz couple tonight, and heading off to Kyzyl-Oi tomorrow!

Tonight’s lodging

Interesting decorations at dinner venue

Some stats:

• 321 KMs traveled
• 1 unique interaction
• 7.9L fuel added
• 30g coffee consumed

Route to date (Part 2)

Overall route progress